If You Have To Choose 1 Skin Care Step Before Bed, Make It This One

Posted on 13/04/2024 by Boris Clair

There’s so much that your body does to reset and refresh while you’re sleeping, and your skin is no exception.

“Just like our entire body, the skin has a circadian rhythm,” said dermatologist Dr. Helen M. Torok. “It repairs at night and protects during the day. The skin works hard to renew itself from the damage done throughout the day. Your skin cells regenerate at night, recovering from high levels of cortisol, the stress hormone, that can wreak havoc on your body during the day.”

As such, it’s important to make the most of the money you’re spending on skin care during the overnight hours, when it can work its magic most effectively. Essentially, it’s your chance to undo everything that you did to your skin throughout the previous day.

“The repair of damage from UV exposure, pollution and other environmental stressors occurs at night, when the skin’s blood flow increases,” said dermatologist Dr. Sonia Badreshia. “This is also when collagen production is boosted and harmful free radicals are neutralised.” Dermatologist Dr. Blair Murphy-Rose added, “It’s believed that the rate of skin renewal doubles at night.”

Your skin absorbs products better when you’re sleeping.

As productive as the skin is at night, you can make it even more so with the application of products it can really drink in and use. “If you aren’t doing targeted nighttime care, you’re missing the opportunity to support skin’s natural repair mechanisms,” Badreshia said.

“Your nighttime skin care routine should facilitate repairs and regeneration,” Murphy-Rose said. “The nighttime skin care product you apply can boost the skin’s hydration overnight or target cell turnover while you rest,” Wolinsky said.

There’s one thing you MUST do at night.

Each of the experts revealed what they believe to be the biggest non-negotiable for nighttime skin care.

Murphy-Rose insists on using an eye cream. “Our skin undergoes significant water loss through the skin at night if we don’t take measures to prevent it,” Murphy-Rose said. “While some will tell you that an eye cream is unnecessary, the truth is that an undereye cream, which is typically richer than your facial moisturiser, can help to prevent water loss through this very thin skin while sleeping. Dehydrated eyes are more tired-appearing eyes, so I do recommend applying an undereye cream before bedtime.”

Wolinsky suggests using your most potent products at night. “Night is a good time to use any products that may have a slight odour, or may bleach clothing, like benzoyl peroxide, or which may be deactivated by the daytime UV rays, like tretinoin and some other retinoids,” Wolinsky said.

Retinol gets another vote: “My opinion is that with the exception of people with rosacea or overly sensitive skin, everyone should be using a retinol, and they’re ideal for nighttime use,” said dermatologist Dr. Corey L. Hartman. “The benefits are numerous and unparalleled and are arguably the most important step that you can take for overall skin health and anti-aging after sun protection factor. Retinols regulate cell turnover, promote effective exfoliation, prevent acne, even discolouration, control oil, smooth fine lines and wrinkles, unclog pores and so much more.”

And if you can’t even with the idea of slathering something on, at least wash the dirt off, experts said. “The biggest mistake people make is not washing their faces,” Hartman said. “The one thing you must do is wash your face at night before you go to sleep. You want to remove makeup, oil and other impurities that are “stuck” to the face from the day. If you go to bed with your face unwashed, you are asking for a breakout, or oily skin.”

KISS = Keep it simple, skin.

If the thought of caring for your skin is the last thing you want to do most nights, know that these dermatologists understand the struggle is real. One way to ensure that you’ll follow through is to simplify this one part of your life. “The majority of patients tell me that they are more consistent with their morning routine versus their nighttime routine, as a result of being tired from the day and just wanting to crawl into bed out of sheer exhaustion,” Torok said. “Others find their nighttime routine overwhelming and are not confident on how to layer their nighttime skin care routine.”

“Patients tend to overdo skin care and add unnecessary steps,” Wolinsky chimed in. “My recommendation is to cleanse the skin with a gentle cleanser and then follow with a small amount of a retinoid if tolerated and a hydrating thicker moisturiser. If skipping retinoid that evening, then just moisturise.”

“Consistency is key,” Badreshia said. “The benefits of nighttime skin care accumulate over time, and a consistent, targeted approach can lead to significant improvements in skin health and appearance. Listening to your skin and adjusting your routine as needed can also help address emerging issues before they become more significant concerns.″

This January Movement Challenges Women To Rethink Their Body Hair

Posted on 20/01/2024 by Boris Clair

Many people use the month of January to try out lifestyle changes, like going alcohol-free for “Dry January” or abstaining from animal products for “Veganuary.” But one January movement you might be less familiar with is “Januhairy.”

A portmanteau of “January” and “hairy,” Januhairy is a movement that encourages people to put their razors down and let their body hair grow out for the month ― and then perhaps year-round if they enjoy the experience. While Movember and No Shave November aim to raise awareness around men’s health and cancer, Januhairy is about challenging societal beauty norms, especially for women and femme-presenting people.

“It’s a way for us to question body hair standards and why we follow these societal norms that make us feel like body hair isn’t beautiful or feminine or acceptable on a woman’s body — despite being acceptable on a man’s body — and it challenges the feeling that our body hair is innately gross when it’s just hair,” Esther Calixte-Bea, a body hair activist and visual artist, told HuffPost.

Indeed, Januhairy founder Laura Jackson launched the movement just before January 2019 to raise money for a body-image-focused organisation called Body Gossip, and to empower women to stop shaving, waxing and lasering ― or at least question why they might feel they have to.

“I think it’s an interesting way for women to try to grow out their hair in a collective way, as a form of resistance, as a form of self-experimentation, and as a playful and fun form of rebellion,” said Breanne Fahs, a professor of women and gender studies at Arizona State University and author of “Unshaved: Resistance and Revolution in Women’s Body Hair Politics.”

In many ways, Januhairy serves as a reminder that women removing their body hair is a relatively recent phenomenon.

“It came about in the early 1920s as a result of several different factors: the advent of fashion photography, the end of WWI and men coming home with their (mandatory) razor kits, the 1918 pandemic moved bathing from communal settings to individual household bathrooms for middle-class households, and the Gillette razor company making a conscious decision to market razors to women and sell them on the ‘grossness’ of body hair in order to make money,” Fahs explained. “Prior to the 1920s, women mostly did not remove their body hair voluntarily. This occurred only in the context of colonial conquest, etc.”

As fashion trends evolved toward sleeveless tops that showed women’s underarms and skirts that revealed a little more leg, Gillette released its “Milady Decoletté” razor for women in 1915 and marketed it as a product that “solves an embarrassing personal problem.” Although there is evidence of ancient Romans, Greeks and Egyptians removing body hair, women around the early 20th century were not so focused on hairlessness.

Women shaving their legs with mechanical razors in New York City in 1927.

“As a Black woman, I was interested to read an article that shared how it was mostly white women who propagated the idea of a woman being hairless as the ideal,” Calixte-Bea said. “I’ve also heard from women from African countries that they didn’t feel obligated to shave their legs until they arrived in America or Canada. My hairiness mostly comes from my Ivorian side, and I’ve learned that in my ancestors’ time, body hair was seen as something beautiful. So i think my body hair tells the story of my family and my ancestors.”

While marketers might have made women see body hair as “an embarrassing personal problem,” the practice of removing it generally has no basis in medical or hygiene concerns.

“In reality, hair is normal, and having hair or choosing not to shave your hair is actually embracing what is normal,” said Dr. Susan Massick, a board-certified dermatologist at The Ohio State University Wexner Medical Center. “Not shaving and leaving hair to grow in places like the armpits, bikini area and legs is not unhygienic. Believe it or not, pubic hair, for example, serves a protective purpose, particularly for women’s vaginal health. If people choose or prefer to shave, that is fine to do. Keep in mind that for some people, shaving can actually be irritating to the skin, causing bumpy, painful breakouts and rashes.”

In recent years, there have been some shifts toward body hair acceptance in Western culture, but for the most part, the changes haven’t been as significant as many would hope.

“We’re seeing some more body hair on-screen, and some companies have even figured out how to sell razors with body-hair-positive marketing,” Conger said. “But I don’t think that’s translated into full-blown norm shifting since the vast majority of cisgender women regularly shave our legs and pits.”

She pointed to the moment when Julia Roberts revealed her unshaved armpit hair at the 1999 premiere of “Notting Hill” and the subsequent media frenzy (though the actor later admitted that it was not intended as any sort of statement).

Julia Roberts at the premiere of "Notting Hill" in London in April 1999. — Julia Roberts at the premiere of “Notting Hill” in London in April 1999.

“She forgot to shave once, and pop culture will never un-remember it,” Conger said. “Almost 25 years later, if say, Taylor Swift hit a red carpet with visible pit hair, the internet would probably cave in on itself. I think body hair removal is still so persistent partly because the hair-free pressure starts young, and it often comes from peers and parents alike. As long as we expect girls to start shaving, women won’t be ‘allowed’ to stop.”

Fahs agreed that notions of the norm shifting have been overstated, with some estimates saying that over 95-99% of women in the U.S., Australia and England still remove their body hair. She finds it encouraging, however, to see women use opportunities like Januhairy to try to grow out their body hair and see how it feels.

“It’s always better to see the power of a norm by breaking it, and it’s a great way to understand your body better!” Fahs said, sharing what she would say to someone considering taking part in Januhairy. “Go for it! It can teach you many things about who thinks they have a say in your body and how you present your body in the world. It can also teach you about your own biases about grooming and femininity related to body hair. Body hair is a powerful site of gender and power!”

Conger echoed this sentiment, applauding the movement’s impact in making folks reconsider this “this time-consuming, sometimes painful and expensive femininity maintenance.”

“Januhairy is an opportunity to opt out of a beauty norm, but more importantly, it’s a chance to check our own reactions to women’s body hair and understand how it’s different for people with polycystic ovarian syndrome, for instance, or Sikh women who keep kesh,” she added.

January is also a particularly good time of year for people to experiment with their body hair if they’re hesitant.

“If you live somewhere with a cold winter like I do in Canada, you get to grow out your body hair while covering it outside and not feeling like anyone is going to judge you,” Calixte-Bea said.

Conger believes that “Januhairy” is a catchier way to describe what many women and femme people already do during cold weather months.

“That’s the thing about body hair, right?” she said. “It’s only ‘taboo’ when other people can see it.”

Growing out your body hair for yourself in a cold season provides a type of safe space to push back against the norms and discourse that make us see ourselves in a negative light.

“Once you get home, you can see yourself as you are,” Calixte-Bea added. “It’s a very liberating experience to see your body as it naturally is and not once you’ve changed it. Working in retail, I’ve seen women of all ages talk about the things they hate about their bodies, but that’s not something I want for myself and other women.”

Of course, everyone is welcome to try growing out their body hair at any time of year. And if you don’t enjoy how it feels, you aren’t obligated to continue.

“I think it is important to normalise hair and having body hair in much the same way society should embrace all body types,” Massick said. “My philosophy is ‘you do you’ ― do what feels right.”

So THAT’s Why We Lose More Hair In Winter

Posted on 11/01/2024 by Boris Clair

The temperatures are plummeting, we’re trying to keep nice and cozy and for some reason… we seem to be losing more hair than normal?

While we sometime notice changes to our hair growth and thickness at certain points in the year (hello summer shine amirite?), it can be alarming and distressing when unexplained.

So what the heck is going on with this winter hair loss? We spoke to Dr Sara Perkins, Advisor of Dermatology for Hims – the digital health platform connecting patients to licensed healthcare professionals in the UK – to get the lowdown on seasonal hair loss.

The good news? Although it’s incompletely understood, there is some data to support the notion of seasonal hair loss.

Changing levels of ultraviolet radiation or temperature may shift follicles from the growth phase into the resting, and subsequent shedding, phase.

One study found the highest number of follicles in the telogen (resting) phase in July, with another smaller peak in April. Hairs are typically shed at the end of the telogen phase, roughly 100 days after it begins, corresponding to the shedding in autumn that many people anecdotally notice.

According to Dr Perkins, seasonal hair shedding, and most cases of telogen effluvium, are self-limited and new hair re-grows.

However, if you’re noticing prolonged shedding, or start to see thinned hair density across the scalp, it’s important to seek an evaluation to consider other potential explanations, including genetic and hormonal factors, as in androgenetic alopecia.

Androgenetic alopecia can progress slowly and subtly at first, but may become more noticeable after a shedding event occurs.

Is there anything I can do?

If you want to be an active part of solving the problem, there are treatments available.

Topical minoxidil helps to shift follicles from the resting phase back into the growth phase, and also stimulates increased blood flow or circulation to the follicles themselves to support healthy growth.

Dihydrotestosteron (DHT) can damage hair follicles by shrinking them down, resulting in thinner, finer hairs. Finasteride blocks the conversion of testosterone to DHT, preventing further damage and stimulating healthy hair growth.

Because they work differently, combination products, like this topical finasteride and minoxidil formulation, allow people to benefit from both treatments at the same time.

Day-to-day hair care practices and exposures can also vary seasonally and impact the hair’s appearance. In summer, it’s all about protecting your hair from the sun’s harmful UV radiation.

Exposure can damage proteins like keratin and disulfide bonds, leading to increased fragility and frizz.

And sorry swimming lovers, but chlorine exposure from swimming can dissolve lipids within the hair shaft as well.

In the winter months, wearing hats and scarves may create friction, which can contribute to strand fragility and breakage. Finding the perfect balance between weather protection and a vibrant appearance is the key to conquering winter hair blues.

Understanding seasonal hair shedding provides valuable insights into the dynamic relationship between environmental factors and hair health. While some shedding is a natural and cyclical process, persistent or excessive shedding, or visible hair thinning, may require more attention and professional consultation.

Wondering Why Everyone’s Buying Skin Care With Niacinamide? Here’s Your Answer

Posted on 18/11/2023 by Boris Clair

If niacinamide were a person, it would already have earned a Nobel Peace Prize. As a skin care ingredient, it can go pretty much everywhere, calm things down right away and get everything working well together. But until they start awarding global honours for skin creams (and really, why not?), mighty niacinamide continues to prove there’s little it can’t do for beleaguered, stressed and irritated skin.

What It Is And How It Helps Skin

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3, a water-soluble vitamin that’s a powerful antioxidant everyone needs to support a number of cellular processes. “It’s not produced naturally by the body, so you must use skin care products specifically formulated with niacinamide to experience the ingredient’s benefits,” Tom Allison, senior vice president and global head of professional marketing at CeraVe, told HuffPost.

It appears in products intended to alleviate fine lines and wrinkles, acne, eczema, discolouration, rosacea, large pores, oily skin and sun damage, among other things. If that seems like a tall order for one ingredient to address all those issues, niacinamide is up to the job, experts say.

Erin Greer, executive director of education and training at Alastin Skincare, explained that one of the ingredient’s superpowers is restoring the moisture barrier function of the skin. “As we get older, we can lose the lipid barrier that makes skin radiant and luminous. Niacinamide produces ceramides that help to restore that barrier, reduce dehydration and help skin look better.”

In a sign of our overstressed times, dermatologist Dhaval Bhanusali said, “In general, there’s a trend toward ‘calming’ ingredients. Niacinamide is a popular option since it’s so well-tolerated. It’s truly a star ingredient and one I recommend often.”

Good For Dry Skin, Oily Skin — Pretty Much Good For Skin In General

You knew we couldn’t get this far into a skin care article without talking about free radicals, those pesky molecules with unpaired electrons that can build up and cause oxidative stress, which harms other cells and speeds up aging symptoms like wrinkles. “As a true multitasker, niacinamide neutralizes free radicals and helps to address the slowing of skin aging through repair and rejuvenation,” dermatologist Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin said. But wait, she said, there’s more: “Because it’s also been shown to regulate oil secretion and cell skin turnover, it’s recommended for both dry, sensitive skin and oily, acne-prone skin types, too.”

It might be hard to find a skin care ingredient that plays so well with others. “Niacinamide tends to complement and work well when layered with several other active ingredients that compose a typical skin care regimen,” said dermatologist Janiene Luke, co-chair of the Skin of Color Society technology and media committee and associate professor and director of the dermatology residency program at Loma Linda University. “It typically can be used in people who also use retinoids, salicylic acid and other chemical exfoliants, as well as hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid.”

How To Get Started And When You’ll See Results

“Most people can tolerate niacinamide, but I’d suggest looking for concentrations that range from 2% to 10%, since higher concentrations sometimes can cause irritation,” Luke said.

“With my patients, I’ve seen them do well with up to 6% niacinamide,” Bhanusali said. “If it’s higher than that, you should spot treat first and make sure you tolerate well before applying all over.”

If you like the results you’re seeing on your face, try using it all over your body, Deanne Mraz Robinson, dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Yale New Haven Hospital, told HuffPost. “Look for it as an ingredient in body lotion, as well. It’s a helpful ingredient for dry, itchy skin.” She did note some caveats: “It shouldn’t be used simultaneously with skin care products that contain vitamin C. When combined with vitamin C, it turns into niacin, which can cause redness and irritation in sensitive skin.”

Once you begin regular applications, you’ll need to be patient. “Niacinamide typically takes eight to 12 weeks to work if you’re using it regularly,” dermatologist Ellen Marmur said. “But in some cases, you will see almost immediate improvement.”

And, as always, use common sense: avoid it if you’re allergic to it, of course. And go slowly. “Some people do get irritated by higher concentrations of niacinamide, so you can get too much of a good thing,” said Michelle Wong, the chemistry Ph.D. behind the Lab Muffin Beauty Science blog.

Ouch – These New Sunburn Stats Will Have You Reaching For Your SPF

Posted on 20/05/2023 by Boris Clair

Be honest, how seriously do you take sun protection? Do you reapply sunscreen throughout the day, even on cloudy days?

According to collaborative research from LifeJacket Skin Protection and Melanoma UK, people in the UK are putting themselves in what the researchers have described as “grave danger” by not protecting their skin effectively with SPF.

The research has been launched in time for Skin Cancer Awareness Month and highlights how our neglectful approach to SPF is putting our bodies at risk.

Five Or More Sunburns Puts You At A Higher Risk Of Melanoma

According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, five or more sunburns can put you at a higher risk of melanoma – the third most common skin cancer in the UK. This is especially concerning given that the LifeJacket Skin Protection and Melanoma UK research found that, on average, UK adults have burnt themselves 15 times in a lifetime. Additionally, 20% of adults say that they never use SPF.

Ultraviolet light (UV) is a form of non-ionising radiation that is emitted by the sun and artificial sources, such as tanning beds and is responsible for 80% of premature skin ageing and 90% of melanoma skin cancers. This is strong enough to affect you even on grey, cloudy days and it’s recommended by Melanoma UK that sun protection is applied on a daily basis.

Of the UK adults who shared that they don’t use SPF every day:

21% said this was because they rarely burn and just tan
1 in 5 said they only use it when they feel like they’re burning
20% of people only remember when prompted by a friend or family member
16% will only use it abroad
10% only when the dial goes over 40 degrees celsius

However, according to the NHS, there is no healthy or safe way to tan.

Speaking on the data, Professor Christian Aldridge, a dermatologist who specialises in skin cancer said, “This new data correlates with what I’m seeing every day in my surgery… In many cases, it’s causing skin cancer which is almost totally preventable. We need a sharp change in attitudes to tanning and protection in order to slow down the rise in skin cancer cases.”

How To Effectively Protect Your Skin From Sun Damage

To effectively protect your skin, Professor Aldridge recommends:

Daily use of SPF of at least 30, especially between April to September
Wear Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) clothing, especially if you have fair skin. Skin Cancer Foundation created a guide on UPF clothing if you’re unsure of what it includes
Monitor your skin and if you have lesions that aren’t healing or are newly-pigmented for more than six weeks, especially in sun-exposed areas, keep an eye on them. He recommends monitoring for crusting, bleeding, and re-forming again or not improving with time. If this occurs, seek medical attention.

Additionally, the NHS recommends:

Spend time in the shade between 11am to 3pm
Apply sunscreen lotion 30 minutes before going out and then again just before leaving
Reapply every two hours
Reapply after being in water even if your sunscreen says it is “water resistant” as towel-drying and sweating can still remove it

Here’s How To Tell If You’re Over-Applying Your Skincare Products

Posted on 09/01/2023 by Boris Clair

If you’re overdoing it with your skincare products, you might want to dial things back a notch or two, for the sake of both your budget and your face.

You could be wasting some serious cash by slathering on a product that’s already getting absorbed as much as possible. What’s more, you could be clogging up your pores.

And products like retinoids can have even more serious issues, since applying too much carries the risk of skin irritation.

“I always tell my patients that overusing retinol, either in the amount applied or in the frequency of application, will not bring about anti-aging benefits any faster nor reduce acne quicker,” warns dermatologist and Mount Sinai clinical instructor Dr. Rachel Westbay. “It will only lead to dryness, redness, peeling or burning.”

If a little bit of something is good for your skin, why isn’t more better? According to chemist and science educator Michelle Wong, the “depot effect” comes into play.

“This means that ingredients will absorb into the top layers of your skin and slowly absorb into the lower layers over time. And once the top layers are saturated, any extra won’t add much,” says Wong, the founder of Lab Muffin Beauty Science, a resource explaining the science behind beauty products.

“This doesn’t happen with stronger retinoids, since they’re already very irritating before the saturation point is reached. But with a lot of other products, it means that applying something five times a day isn’t going to bring much more benefit than applying it twice.”

Take it easy with retinoids

If you’re concerned about over-applying retinols in particular, dermatologist Dr. Karyn Grossman offers a helpful visual. “We’re often told to limit application to a ‘pea size,’ but some people have no idea how big or small a pea is. So I tell them to think about the size of a mechanical pencil eraser,” says Grossman, who co-founded the skincare company Raf Five.

“I recommend placing a small dot on the palm, then using the finger to tap this dot and blend tiny amounts on the forehead, cheeks, nose and chin.”

Westbay points out that it’s good to start slowly. “Begin using a retinol product just one or two nights a week at first and work up to greater frequency,” she advises.

The Mount Sinai instructor also notes that acne spot treatments are often over-applied. “Unless the product has been designed specifically to cover an entire area, like a roll-on, it should be applied in a microdot amount, like the tip of a ballpoint pen,” she says.

Advice for moisturisers, toners and serums

Other products, even moisturisers, require careful application as well. “If you use occlusive moisturisers that may clog pores, applying a very thick layer could lead to acne or other issues with occlusion of the skin,” notes dermatologist Dr. Jeremy Fenton.

Toner, which can be drying, should similarly be applied in the correct amount. “I usually advise using enough product to moisten a cotton round that can then be swiped over the desired areas,” says Dr. Courtney Rubin, a dermatologist and co-founder of skincare brand Fig.1. “If you aren’t using a cotton pad, probably a dime- or nickel-sized amount in the palm of the hand can then be pressed into the skin.”

She shouldn't be dropping that directly on her face — find out why. — She shouldn’t be dropping that directly on her face — find out why.

Joie Tavernise, a medical aesthetician and the founder of company JTAV Clinical Skincare, cautions that a little bit of toner goes a long way. “If you see that the cotton pad is dirty after going over your face once, you can apply more to a second cotton pad. Continue until it looks clean after wiping your face,” she says.

Serums don’t require very much product to be effective, says dermatologist Dr. Nkem Ugonabo, so save your money by applying with a light touch. “I usually tell my patients that a little goes a long way,” she says. “Typically only a couple of drops are needed for the entire face. Also, I recommend applying it with your hands, rather than using the dropper and touching it directly on your face.”

But wait… there’s sunscreen

The one exception to these guidelines is sunscreen, which calls for a heavier application than you probably realise.

“Most people only apply 25 to 50% of the recommended amount of sunscreen,” says dermatologist Dr. Hadley King. “For our body, apply about a shot glass worth, and use a nickel-sized dollop to the face.”

But if you overdo it a bit, that’s totally OK, according to Tavernise. “This is the only product that you can’t use too much of” when protecting your skin from the sun’s damaging rays, “and you should reapply it throughout the day,” she says.

Layer up and pay attention

As long as you’re considering how much to apply, it also makes sense to think about the order of application, experts say. “Start with double-cleansing, then toner, then a treatment product like serum and finally moisturiser that has SPF [sun protection factor] for the day or without SPF at night,” suggests aesthetician Rachel Roff, who is the founder and CEO of the brand Urban Skin Rx.

Another good rule of thumb came from Jennifer Weiss, a physician assistant at dermatology practice Marmur Medical, who says: “A skincare routine should always start off with the thinnest to thickest products. To prevent potential irritation, sandwich the retinol with moisturiser before and after application.”

Many experts offered a “your mileage may vary” caveat, suggesting that you pay attention to each product and how your skin responds to it. “With very nourishing products, you might not need too much. And other times it’s important to apply liberally, taking extra time to massage a nourishing blend into the skin,” says aesthetician Tammy Fender. “I like to observe how a product absorbs as I massage it in, giving it time and making sure that the skin is taking in the benefits. Otherwise you risk over-application.”

Being cautious and paying attention can save you money in the long run, experts say. Dermatologist Dr. Kseniya Kobets offers this suggestion: “Of course, companies want you to use up their products faster so you can buy more. But often if you are pumping out eye serum or cream, you can do a half a pump and see if it spreads over both eyes. If there’s extra product that doesn’t absorb after a few minutes, you may be over-applying. And if you notice new bumps, whiteheads or breakouts, reconsider how much you’re using.”

Dermatologist Dr. Michelle Henry agrees. “If you’ve just applied moisturiser and your skin feels very tacky, slimy and somewhat oily, then chances are you’ve used too much,” she says. “Your skin should feel rejuvenated and not weighed down by your skincare products.”

She also suggests adding a dollop of patience to your routine. “On average, our skin need around two to four weeks to show positive or negative reactions to new skincare products,” Henry says. “If you notice new breakouts, irritated skin or dry patches, these may be the signs that you are using too much or even the wrong products.”

Slow and steady wins the skincare race

Make sure to read the label before applying anything. “Only use products that have been clinically tested in the listed amount, and follow the product’s directions,” says facial plastic surgeon Dr. Amir Karam.

“It’s all about finding the right skincare regimen that works best for you and your skin,” Henry says. “Just be patient, listen to your skin and look for specific ingredients that work well on your skin type. Start with one new product and advance slowly.”

If you’re wondering whether all this effort is worth it, the experts HuffPost spoke to were absolutely positive about the long-term rewards of a well-planned, well-applied skincare regime. Dermatologist Dr. Ellen Marmur, who founded the brand MMSkincare, offers this inspiration: “Reward yourself with a ‘virtual’ $50 bonus every time you moisturise your skin. A happy skin barrier will be radiant and younger looking, which is like money in the bank, so you won’t need to spend as much on makeup or laser treatments later on.”

Try TikTok’s Viral Pillowcase If Your Skin, Hair And Sleep Routine Need TLC

Posted on 28/12/2022 by Boris Clair

We hope you love the products we recommend! All of them were independently selected by our editors. Just so you know, HuffPost UK may collect a share of sales or other compensation from the links on this page if you decide to shop from them. Oh, and FYI — prices are accurate and items in stock as of time of publication.

There are three areas many of us strive to perfect when it comes to health and beauty: our skin, hair and sleep. Often the secret to all round good health is a restful snooze, but there are a number of factors that can disrupt your slumber, and have a knock on effect on your physical and mental health.

But Silvi has become a bit of an internet sensation to combat all of the above, in the form of its anti-acne silk pillowcase.

Silk pillowcases have seen a surge in populariy in recent years, thanks to celeb advocates such as Queer Eye’s Jonathan Van Ness, but Silvi has gone one step further with a triple threat in the bedding and beauty game: a pillowcase that aims to prevent hair damage, achieve blemish-free skin, and act as a sleep aid.

Maybe it’s understandable that this pillowcase has gone viral on TikTok, racking up more than 20 million views after a video testing the product proved no nasties grow from, or on, this design, in over a week. Genius, right?

The science behind Silvi’s anti-acne silk pillowcases is that they are treated with silver ions, clinically proven to eliminate up to 99.7% bacteria that contribute to breakouts, within a week.

Not only is the gentle and lightweight fabric antibacterial, it’s hypoallergenic too, and free from any chemicals, making it a good bet if you’ve got sensitive skin, suffer from allergies, or are prone to breakouts – as well as shoppers on the lookout for anti-ageing solutions.

And then there’s the hair benefits. The mulberry silk fabric is soft to the touch, which is ideal for those wanting to prevent hair breakage when tossing and turning through the night. Plus, the gentle fabric means a comfortable surface to lay your head on, which inevitably encourages a better night’s sleep.

Silvi’s pillowcase is also temperature regulating, meaning no more night sweats, or sleepless slumbers leaving you tired and groggy come the morning. In fact, the brand says the fabric is “4.5 times more breathable and cooling than cotton”, making it popular with pre and perimenopausal women, too.

The Anti-Acne Silk Pillowcase comes in two sizes (standard and king size), as well as two colours (white and charcoal grey), to match your bedroom style. It also features a zip fastening so there’s no fear of your pillow slipping out.

Silvi’s pillowcase has been ethically certified cruelty free as it’s not tested on animals. And while the innovative design is machine washable – on a delicate setting with a neutral pH detergent – the silver treatment keeps it fresher for longer, so the pillowcase only needs washing every 10 to 14 days. Fewer washes means this purchase is more eco friendly, too. Every little helps.

Each pillowcase retails for £49, but fans say it’s an investment work making, considering the benefits to your hair, skin, sleep, and washing come laundry day. Buy for yourself, a friend, relative or loved one, and know that if you aren’t quite satisfied with your purchase, Silvi offers shoppers a 100-night guarantee, which means unsatisfied customers are eligible for a full refund.

But, with 100,000 pillowcases sold to happy customers in the first year alone, we don’t expect you’ll be using it any time soon. Sweet dreams!

The 10 Best Makeup TikTok Trends Of 2022, According To The Pros

Posted on 27/12/2022 by Boris Clair

TikTok is a constant source of inspiration among beauty lovers, quickly becoming the go-to platform for tutorials and #makeupinspo as well as a great place to discover new talent in the beauty sphere.

HuffPost spoke to five makeup artists to find out their favourite trends of 2022. Here’s what they couldn’t get enough of and what they loved trying on themselves.

Euphoria makeup

Think glitters, bold colours and bling. The HBO series had us glued to our screens ― partly because of Zendaya’s phenomenal acting and partly because of the innovative makeup. Our experts praised the looks.

Millie Kendall, founder and CEO of the British Beauty Council: “Euphoria has been a bit of a moment on TikTok. Lots of glitter and shiny shadows. Appliqués and jewels, generally adornments. The combination of dewy, glowy skin with shimmery eyes has been great. It reminds me of a ‘nightclub at 4am’ kind of look.”

Rose Gallagher, makeup artist and beauty content creator: “I loved the whole Euphoria style makeup of super fresh skin with playful pops of colour on the eyes. 2022 has been a year that really made me rethink how I use coverage and made me want to use as little as possible so that the focal point of my makeup was those pops of color, not the complexion. I loved the start of 2022 when we would have a weekly new Euphoria episode and people would replicate the [looks]. Cassie’s unhinged moments with little pops of gems and glitter were a real highlight!”

Check out some of the best TikTok tutorials about Euphoria makeup:

Mood makeup

Lately, we have seen people re-creating real feelings through their makeup, from being cold to sad and everything in between. Want to look like you’ve been crying? There is now a makeup trend (and tutorial) for that.

Ehlie Luna, pro makeup artist and beauty content creator: “Going a step beyond the ‘clean girl’ makeup aesthetic, we have seen more people leaning into how they feel or how they want to feel. The makeup look that took over the past two years will serve as a sort of home base, with playful touches ranging from cold girl, indie sleaze, to dark feminine and more layered on top.”

Katie Jane Hughes, celebrity makeup artist: “There’s something really beautiful about these looks. The look people are trying to create is happening naturally and there’s oddly something really cute and pretty about that. It’s also quite strange, but I tried the ‘cold girl makeup’ and liked it!”

Glossy 90s Lips

There was some controversy with Hailey Bieber’s “brownie glazed lip” this year, but the brown lip liner and gloss combo still has been a much-loved look, since it suits everyone and gives J.Lo 90s vibes.

Donni Davy, head Euphoria makeup artist and co-founder of Half Magic: “I love the shift from pinky nude lips to brownie nude lips. Browns and rosy browns just look so stunning on everyone, and there are so many directions to go here. Soft and diffused, punctuated with darker brown liner, and worn with a sparkly gloss on top, to name a few. Half Magic’s Rosy Brown Mouth Cloud Lip Cream in Magic Brownie is my favourite! It’s velvety soft, hydrating and buildable.”

Kendall: “I noticed a throwback to the J.Lo lip – the darker liner and the defined, glossy pout. I wouldn’t have normally taken to it – I was there the first time around! But I think that the colors of lip liners are so sophisticated now, with Vieve, Charlotte Tilbury and Lisa Eldridge really owning the space and delivering superb colour options that have made this quite a wearable look.”

Blush, blush, blush

Makeup artists and beauty influencers have fallen hard for cream and stick blushes, which give a natural sheen to the skin and blend seamlessly. TikTok is full of blush looks featuring purple blush, blush draping, lipstick worn as blush and more techniques that have gone viral.

Luna: “After a period of blush ‘fear,’ we’ve gone all in. Every season there are more ways to wear it like high placements, the W trend, and editorial draped styles. With more shades and formulas than ever before, there’s something here for everyone.”

Davy: “I think purple blush really made a splash in 2022 and is still making its mark. I love to convince people whenever I can to try this one out! I’m loving the shift from pink blush shades to the surprisingly flattering violet. Violet has the cool tones of purple in it, but it’s also super warm for a purple and actually has quite a bit of pink in it so it doesn’t look completely jarring on the cheek, especially if you’re blending in just a sheer layer. My favourite way to wear it is with a periwinkle or lilac shimmer on top as a highlighter. It’s a delicate, yet simultaneously edgy, way to wear blush and I’m obsessed with it.”

Rainbow eyes

A fun and colorful look reminds us that love is love and that makeup exists for people to have fun with. Why not play with colors and try something new?

Kendall: “This year has been really focused on eyes, I particularly loved the focus on neon eyeliners. I have been wearing quite a lot of neon blue with blue mascara the last few months.”

Gallagher: “I loved the Pride makeup and colourful rainbow-inspired looks (creator Call Me Chim is incredible for those). Not only were the colourful looks just beautiful, but I loved the comradery and celebration of the LGBTQ+ that came along with them.”

Siren eyes meet razor-sharp wings

The eyeliner trend has really evolved this year, partly thanks to Davy’s work on Euphoria. Now, there are more tools than ever before to help you achieve the perfect flick, from silicone guides to liners designed for those with fine motor issues.

Gallagher: “The siren eyes trend [which is connected to Middle-Eastern makeup looks] felt really classic and sexy. I definitely think this would look great on everyone. What I loved about it is that it is a little undone, all about framing the eyes and creating a feline shape but without the constraints of perfection. It would still look great five hours into wearing.”

Old Hollywood glam

The focus here is on beautiful smoky eyes, bold eyelashes and the glam reminiscent of the 30s to the 50s in Hollywood and beyond.

Gallagher: “Around the time of the Marilyn Monroe film launching onto Netflix, there were some beautiful videos using Marilyn’s techniques (Sophie Mand did some great ones). I thought it was lovely that we were seeing these tips for really timeless, old-Hollywood glamour on a platform saturated with newness. It felt very achievable to recreate something we were so familiar with and also seemed like a trend you could jump on just using whatever you already have in your makeup bag.”

Metallic eyes

This trend is perfectly suited for the festive season and beyond. Metallic eyes are much-loved by makeup artists and are suitable even for makeup newbies.

Hughes: “I think metallic eyes suit everyone. I feel people are scared of shimmer and glitter – perhaps they think it will make their skin look a certain type of way. I think it looks gorgeous on everybody, it just depends on how you apply it. If you are worried it would look too much, just start with a little bit, press it onto the centre of the lid and work it around. Start with a little bit and add more when you’re comfortable.”

Natural-looking skin

The natural-looking “no-makeup makeup” trend continued this year, and the “clean girl makeup” trend is also here to stay, according to the experts.

Luna: “Makeup artists, myself included, have been going deeper with makeup techniques on TikTok and Instagram. We have seen the use of multiple powders in makeup routines – from pigmented loose to translucent pressed powders, baked and finishing powders.”

Hughes: “The makeup trend that stood out to me the most was glossy skin, letting the skin speak for itself! Something I’ve been a fan of my entire career. Think dewy, skin, like no-makeup makeup.”

Bleached brows

A polarising trend this year, the bleached brows have taken our TikTok screens by storm with tutorials gone wrong and some gone right. If you decide to try out this trend – which was seen on the likes of Julia Fox, Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner ― it might be best to leave it to the professionals.

Kendall: “The 90s eyebrows are back – a bit thinner and bleached. I think the thinner brow is nice, I have never been that big on the overly brushed up bushy brow or the overly neat flat brow.”

Stuck For Stocking Fillers? Save On Shiseido’s Skincare Must-Haves

Posted on 16/12/2022 by Boris Clair

Christmas is almost here, and if you have left buying presents to the last minute, you can’t really go wrong with some lush beauty products. But you need to think beyond the usual gift set.

Luxury beauty brand Shiseido has heard our cries for last minute gift ideas, with a selection of its skincare saviours available for under £30 from Boots – from stocking fillers at purse friendly prices, to blow-the-budget gifts, whether for a friend, relative, partner, or maybe even yourself.

Shiseido’s popular skincare ranges, such as the Benefiance, Ultimune, Vital Perfection lines, as well as the new WASO collection, are all available to shop at Boots now, with products suitable for all skin types and needs, whether you’re shopping for a seasoned skincare pro or someone dabbling for the first time. ]

From SPF protection, gel cleansers and make-up removers to nourishing eye creams,and moisturisers, as well as expertly curated bundles and make-up cosmetics, Shiseido has all bases covered this Christmas.

Most importantly, Boots customers do not have to spend a fortune, as some of Shiseido’s bestsellers are available to shop for as little as £7.50. But which products make the best presents? Let us take you through our picks.

One of Shiseido’s must-haves is the Clear Suncare Stick, which has gone viral on TikTok for its failsafe UV protection, nourishing the skin and preventing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and uneven skin tone. This water-resistant creation uses SynchroShieldTM to protect against harmful UV rays, without leaving a white cast like some sun creams, or stickiness. Retailing for £28, it makes for a perfect stocking filler or main pressie, depending on budget,

We should all be using a good quality cleanser to remove makeup, pollutants or dirt from our skin if we want to avoid clogging our pores and triggering a breakout. Shiseido has the solution in the form of the Waso Shikulime Gel-to-Oil Cleanser. This hybrid cleanser is easy to use, gentle on the skin, and removes stubborn eye makeup, as well as dirt and grime – a cleansing regime for £24.50.

Also from the Waso range, we’re eyeing up the Waso Yuzu-C Eye Awakening Essenence, Waso Pore Care Kit, and Waso Shikulime Mega Hydrating Moisturiser, any one of them great if you’re stuck in a skincare rut.

With a price tag of £32, Shiseido’s award-winning Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate serum may be over the £30, but it’s also a worthwhile investment. This multi-purpose moisturiser, which has garnered over 3,000 glowing reviews from Boots shoppers, is a beauty bag staple, as it works to hydrate, brighten and tighten the skin for a youthful complexion. Considering one serum is sold every seconds, it’s a stocking filler guaranteed to impress.

And let’s not forget bundles, too. The Benefiance Wrinkle Smoothing Eye Set has our piqued as it features the iconic Benefiance Wrinkle Smoothing Eye Cream, Wrinkle Smoothing Cream and Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate, to help you complete a simple three-step beauty routine for morning and night. While the trio may come in at £66, it contains almost £100 worth of products, which means you save a hefty £28.40.

Boots shoppers are eligible for free delivery on orders over £25, as well as next day or named day delivery at a fee – as well the option to collect in store. But be quick – the deal on all these Shiseido bestsellers ends on Christmas Eve.

From Aunties To IG Hairdressers, Black Women’s Hair Ideals Are Changing

Posted on 21/10/2022 by Boris Clair

You’re reading Gen:Blxck, a series exploring Black culture, history, family and identity through the generations.

My earliest memories of having my hair done are all at home. My mother would braid mine and my sister’s hair before it got too thick for her to manage. Then I met my first hairdresser, a family friend of a friend, called Akosi. I’d travel to her house with my mum and spend the next few hours sitting in between her legs, getting curly box braids (my absolute go-to back then).

But in recent years, there’s been a surge of young Black women getting into the hair industry and using Instagram as a way to find clients. They’re labelled IG hairdressers by the community, and fewer women my age are now going to traditional Black hair salons where ‘Aunties’ typically styled your hair.

Aunties once ruled the Black hair landscape here – we grew up with them and we didn’t have anyone else to compare them to. But now there is a growing ‘Aunties versus IG hairdressers’ debate in the community. And of course there are pros and cons to each.

If you’re looking for a cheap price point, you’d probably want to get your hair done by an auntie. The trouble is, you’re more likely to be waiting a few hours to get your hair finished in the salon as they switch – and chat – between clients.

IG hairdressers, on the other hand, are easier to find and book online and more likely to be able to do a hairstyle they haven’t done before, but they also tend to charge more and often get called out for unprofessional behaviour like cancelling last minute.

Whoever we trust with our hair, the styles Black women are favouring are changing – and fast. For centuries our hair has been policed by whiteness, but now, Black women are finding a new sense of pride. We’re finding our unique styles, whether that’s braving the big chop or saying ‘no’ to wigs altogether.

It’s been a long journey to get here and even the biggest fans of IG hairdressers will acknowledge we’ve got decades of salon owners to thank for it.

“In the 1960s, Black hair was often either stylishly styled in a natural African look or chemically treated to give it a washed-out colour,” co-founder and CEO of Curl Centric, Akirashanti Byrd tells HuffPost UK,

Byrd is 45 and she’s been styling Black hair for 15 years. Her customers are mainly Black women who want to keep their hair in its natural state.

“Often, these women are not familiar with the various styling techniques and products available to them, so I spend a lot of time educating them on the available options,” Byrd says. She has seen many trends in her time as a hairdresser. “By the 1980s, Black women were experimenting with naturally kinky curls and Afros, greatly expanding their style options,” she says.

“In the 1990s, we saw celebrities like Viola Davis rocking bold Black hairstyles that stood out from all other styles. This decade also saw the introduction of blonde hair dye, which helped make light-skinned people’s dark locks more visible. Since then, many variations of Black hairstyles have continued to be popular today, including relaxed curls, cornrows, dreadlocks and afro.”

The ways you can treat and style Black hair have also expanded in this time – especially with the help of the natural hair movement.

Akirashanti Byrd: 'I spend a lot of time educating [women] on the available options.' — Akirashanti Byrd: ‘I spend a lot of time educating [women] on the available options.’

The natural hair movement really kicked off in the 60s alongside the civil rights movement, and was spearheaded by political activist Angela Davis. Afros were worn to protest against white supremacy and champion Black liberation.

However, the early to mid 2000s saw a resurgence of this movement. More and more women in our community started to question why we relied so much on straight hair to make us feel worthy. So we put relaxers and the hot combs on pause and brought back the blue magic, afro combs and blow dryers.

Social media has played a big part in this. I learnt how to style my natural hair by watching YouTube. I watched to see how I could maintain a wash and go, slick down my 4C hair, and even attempted to learn how to cane roll (I’m still learning).

“The rise in popularity of natural hairstyles has led to an increase in demand for products and services that cater to this market and has resulted in more Black-owned businesses entering the industry,” Byrd says.

“The natural hair movement has positively influenced the Black hair industry. It has helped increase awareness of the need for products specifically designed for Black hair and has created a demand for these products. This has resulted in more companies developing Black hair care lines, helping to grow the industry.”

Brands like Ruka Hair, Cantu, Shea Moisture, KeraCare are Black girls’ go to for hair products. And women are investing their money into these brands. Black Women in the UK account for 10% of haircare spending, although they make up only 2% of the UK adult population, a survey by TreasureTress found.

“Today, I feel like hair trends seem to change with the season: seasonal colours, lengths and protective styles etc,” says hairstyilst Ayanda Soares. Soares has been a hairdresser for 14 years and describes her customers as those who want to embrace their natural hair and often opt for protective styling.

She began learning when she was a teenager. “I had always done my own hair, as my mum was terrible at doing mine and my sister’s hair – she had dreadlocks for most of our childhood,” she shared. “In secondary school, I would braid friends’ hair and I learned to do braided weaves around the same time.”

Soares tells HuffPost that in her time as a hairdresser, she’s seen a surge in demand for experimental methods such as tape-ins and keratin fusion. These options weren’t accessible in the UK in the same way they were in the US due to a lack of hair suppliers offering extensions for women with Black hair.

“These have been around for many years, but have not been seen at this level in the afro/Black hair space,” she adds.

Ayanda Soares (left) and a model with tape-ins styled by her (right).

Soares agrees that social media has played its part in changing the landscape of Black hair styling. “It has also has allowed us to showcase our work globally,” she says.

She is big on educating women about how to care for their hair, running training programmes that highlight how to clean and prolong your hair extensions, for example.

“Content creators also help sell the message for us business owners, in terms of education, so we tend to work with influencers often,” she adds.

The pandemic also affected the way Black women do their hair – 64.7% said the way the did their hair changed as a result of lockdowns, according to the TreasureTress research.

More of us made the decision to transition “back to natural”, where women grow out their chemically treated hair. Additionally, they actively sought out resources to educate themselves on how to take care of their hair because they were no longer able to visit professionals due to lockdowns.

And with a younger demographic booking clients, the hair styles Black women are choosing is shifting.

Marlene Gatrude Twinomugisha: 'I just kind of fell into it' — Marlene Gatrude Twinomugisha: ‘I just kind of fell into it’

The most popular hairstyles today tend to be the more natural ones, like knotless braids, free-style feed in cane rolls or locs, Marlene Gatrude Twinomugisha, a 20-year-old hairdresser from London tells me.

She started doing hair by “accident”. Similar to Soares, she didn’t like the way her mum did her hair, so took it upon herself to learn how to style it. “I then moved on to to doing hair for my cousins, then my friends and more people were asking me to do their hair at school, so I just kind of fell into it,” she says.

“My experiences getting my hair done by aunties when I was younger was me showing them a hairstyle, them saying they can do it but whenever the style was done, it didn’t look the same at all,” says Twinomugisha, who posts her styles on Instagram under the name Crowned By Her UK.

She believes younger girls have moved to sourcing stylists from Instagram because IG hairdressers are able to jump on hair trends quicker. “Aunties can’t really keep up,” she adds.

However, IG hairdressers also have their issues. Writing for Refinery29 earlier this summer, Yolanthe Fawehinmi detailed how the convoluted booking process and poor customer service is causing young women to return to their roots.

“As more and more horror stories pile in about the last-minute cancellations, excessive fees, where you’ll need to pay a deposit via a booking system to secure an appointment and can be charged for being late, wanting extra length or colour, and of recent, even parting your hair — sometimes bad customer service, young people on social media are boycotting Instagram hairstylists, particularly those on TikTok, who are going back to Britain’s African braiders,” she reported.

Sade Idem, a 25-year-old hairstylist from Kent, says younger black stylists have more of a business mindset.

“With many of us growing up in the UK, we’ve seen how much Caucasian stylists would charge for less challenging hair services, and we realise £60 for seven hours of braiding with no breaks is criminal!” she says.

Idem has a lot of respect for older stylists as they’ve paved the way for the younger ones. “However, many older stylists are focused on the final look, rather than the health of the client’s hair long term,” she comments. “Their customer service can also be affected as they’re trying to fit in as many clients as possible to make up for the low prices they charge.”

Sade Idem: 'We realise £60 for seven hours of braiding with no breaks is criminal.' — Sade Idem: ‘We realise £60 for seven hours of braiding with no breaks is criminal.’

So what does the future of Black hair and hairdressing look like from here? To me, it looks like versatility, growth and experimentation. As we move towards more protective and natural styles, I see us breaking away from the idea that we have to play it safe with our hair. Let’s enjoy it, and have fun.

I hope to see more young Black girls growing in the profession, but I do believe there’s a place for aunties in the Black hairdressing arena. They worked hard to build Black spaces for women to do hair in this country and paved the way for younger Black women to learn and grow as hairdressers.

As Byrd puts it: “There’s no doubt that Black hairdressing is a growing industry with immense potential. The future looks bright for those willing to put in the hard work and dedication required to succeed.”

What does it mean to be Black and British? Well, it depends which generation you ask. This Black History Month, HuffPost UK has teamed up with BuzzFeed’s Seasoned and Tasty UK to find out. Read more from Gen:Blxck here.

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