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Today’s new video shares a fresh take on how to engage with situations where you may feel like a fish out of water. I invite you to take a deeper look at your identity, self-concept, and mental and emotional flexibility. This compact video covers a lot of ground in only 9 minutes, and there are some fun surprises along the way. 😉
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The big Christmas meal is just days away, but don’t you feel like switching things up a bit this year?
Sure, we love our traditional turkey and trimmings, but it can all feel a bit same same. Which is a shame, given the amazing food culture we have in the UK.
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Luckily, our friends over at Tasty have been set on changing all that with their festive video series, A Very Tasty Christmas. Throughout the month of December, they’ve been spotlighting different cultures around the UK who celebrate Christmas – sharing recipes for the delicious dishes they eat.
As a treat, we got to sample every one of these delicious dishes a few weeks ago at the joint Buzzfeed / HuffPost Christmas gathering, so we can vouch for just how mouthwateringly tasty they really are.
Take your pick from the recipes below or why not try them all over the festive break? We promise they’ll add flavour and fun to your table on December 25.
Kosovan Brussels Sprouts🇽🇰
Are you still a sprout doubter? You won’t be once you’ve tried these bad boys. The magic to this recipe from Lirim Gula, aka @gulasgrub, is Sujuk, a dry, spicy and fermented Balkan sausage that takes this festive veg from no to “WOH!”
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Cantonese Hoisin Spatchcock Chicken 🇭🇰
If you’d like something different to turkey, give this juicy chicken recipe from Romany Henry, aka @dudu_eats. a go. Spatchcocking ensures the crispiest skin, while the honey glaze and (hidden) garlic cloves add flavour.
Filipino Leche Flan🇵🇭
Who said Christmas pud has to be stodgy? Make this lighter-than-light Filipino flan from @godfrey_mercado instead (and appreciate his jumper while you do!). The secret is in not overstirring – and getting the final flip after cooking just right.
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Ghanian Jollof Rice with Festive Suya Skewers🇬🇭
Representing Ghana, plant-based chef Rachel, aka @tastycurls, delivers the ultimate Jollof Rice recipe – with 100% vegan skewers on the side. This dish has spice, thanks to the Scotch Bonnet in the sauce – and we love her for it.
Haitian Macaroni Au Gratin🇭🇹
Carinne Julien, aka @carcarj brings sunny Haiti to these chilly climes, with a classy spin on Mac & Cheese. The key? Cheese and more cheese. Watch the vid to see she adds cheddar and parmesan, not once but three times. Yum!
British Toad In The Hole 🇬🇧
It’s not Christmas without pigs in blankets so praise be to creator Emma, aka @thesugafix_, for giving this British classic a key festive update. Serve this one up on Christmas day and you’ll be getting a round of applause from all.
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Italian Wine Cookies 🇮🇹
These tasty Christmas cookies aren’t just for dunking in wine, you actually pour it in the cookie dough, too! You’ll also be using olive oil instead of butter. Could things get more Italian? Wonderful Lucia Fioravanti, aka @luu_cy, explains all.
Middle Eastern Christmas Turkey 🇸🇾
And finally, the turkey on top! Homam Ayaso (@homamino) adds his own special twist on this Christmas centrepiece, smothering it in delicious butter made aromatic with herbs, spices, citrus and a little festive magic for a turkey, in Homan’s words “like no other”. A very merry Christmas from him – and us!
In some ways, a masked millionaire managing to even out-do conspiracy theorists by saying, ‘I love Hitler’ is so outright absurd, that it could be funny.
Jew hatred has become fashionable over the last few years. I’ve got used to seeing #Jews trending on Twitter all the time – never for a good reason.
Sometimes, the hatred is from the far left, who demonise us as Zionists (in their narrative, Zionists who are the puppet masters of politicians, have an obsession with money and like to kill children). And sometimes it is from the far right (who also claim Jews are thepuppet masters of politicians, have an obsession with money and like to kill children).
We are fighting both, but right now Kanye – who legally changed his name to Ye last year – is at the centre of what is sometimes called the horseshoe effect – the idea that all the extremes meet in antisemitism. The problem isn’t that he is one man going on tirades but that he is an extremely influential man, who has twice as many Twitter followers as there are Jews in the entire world.
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“I felt chilled to the bone when I saw a clip of what he was saying,” Lindi*, a 73-year-old Jewish grandmother from Leeds, tells me. “I feel frightened because a whole new tranche of people will be attracted by what he says. The world is a much smaller place than it used to be – ideas get quickly spread around.
“Just before he went on his rant, he was having dinner with Donald Trump who is a very powerful man hoping to become President again. The reach of people like this is huge. And it is no longer just about words – it is not just moaning about Jews at dinner parties – but actual physical attacks are happening.”
Last year antisemitic incidents reached a record high – up 34% – and of these 2,255 attacks, 176 were violent. We are one of the smallest minorities in the country, making up just 0.5% of the UK, but the victims of 23% of all religious assaults.
“One of the things that is worrying me is that he is turning two oppressed communities, who should be allies, against each other,” says Sam S*, 43, from London. “It feels like he’s trying to start a race war and it feels like the far right are encouraging it. I’m worried it’s not going to stop. It’s going to keep escalating.”
Some have put West’s rants down to mental health, as he’s previously spoken about his diagnosis of bipolar disorder. But many have contested the idea that mental illness could cause antisemitism.
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“This isn’t just mental illness – what he is saying is the result of a deep ideology,” says Alex Hearn, 47, from London, who is an antisemitic activist and the director of Labour Against Antisemitism. “The things he has come out with are tropes going back hundreds of years; it is part of a deep conspiratorial belief system. They aren’t off-hand comments but the tip of an ideological iceberg.
“Some of it is far right, white supremacist, Nazi ideology and it merges in with a supersession ideology that Black people are ‘the real Jews’ and that the rest of us are just pretenders. It’s a mix of increasingly popular ideas.”
Prior to Kanye’s latest outburst, he’d already threatened to go ‘death con three’ on Jewish people. Disturbingly, a group in Los Angeles were later photographed draping a banner reading “Kanye is right about the Jews” over a freeway overpass.
For all the Hollywood celebrities who condemed anti-semitism in the aftermath, there were others who repeated some of the rapper’s rhetoric.
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Most notoriously, basketball star Kyrie Irving posted a link to a controversial Amazon documentary called ‘Hebrews to Negroes: Wake Up Black America’ which contains both Holocaust denial and the same idea being spread by Kanye – that African Americans are the ‘real Jews’. (He’s since apologised).
Last week, Amazon boss Andy Jassy refused to bow to pressure to remove the film from the streaming site, saying: “We have to allow access to these viewpoints, even if they are objectionable.”
Hearn believes this stance is potentially “more dangerous than what Kanye is saying”.
“What we are talking about is the normalisation of conspiratorial thinking about Jews in popular culture,” he adds.
What can we do about Kanye and his antisemitism? Jews are stuck in a bind. Speak up and we are whiny – some even accuse us of being racist. Attempt to close him down, and that is proof of our ‘power’. And yet, I can’t tell you how powerless I feel.
“It is this battle which is most painful to me as a Black British Jew.”
– Lara Monroe
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For Black British Jews the situation is complicated and, perhaps, doubly painful. Before Kanye was attacking Jews, he was attacking his own people, says Lara Monroe, a 43-year-old from East London, who writes about her experience of being both Black British and Jewish.
“To divorce Kanye’s antisemitic comments from those he made towards his own Black community can miss the nub of what is going on,” she tells HuffPost UK. “When Kanye and Candace Owens were photographed together wearing an ‘All Lives Matter’ top that was a trigger that something deeper was coming.”
For her, it is particularly painful to see his attempts at starting a war between minorities when she encompasses both.
“Who wins when the relationship between the Black and Jewish communities is broken by the agents of chaos who consciously or unconsciously stir it? The white supremacists. It is this battle which is most painful to me as a Black British Jew.
“When someone like Kanye chooses to be one of those agents, both Black and Jewish people can either feed into this with anger, mistrust and accusations of lack of solidarity or we can do what works, by being alert to and disrupt any spark of supremacist language or behaviour.”
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“We can see Kanye becoming radicalised as we watch.”
– Joseph Cohen
Within hours of the Alex Jones’s podcast broadcast, Kanye was temporarily suspended from Twitter. But activist Joseph Cohen, who is in his late 30s and from London, says the dangerous thing about stopping antisemites talking on the mainstream is that they head into more extreme spaces.
“We can see Kanye becoming radicalised as we watch,” he says. “At first it was just about a Jewish manager. Then it was ‘death con three on Jews’ and now it’s ‘I love Hitler’. One of the pluses of still being able to see what he says is that we can see the full extent of his radicalisation. It is almost impossible for anyone to defend him now. I do worry that if we don’t allow for free speech, we push them into the arms of the neo-Nazis, but as it is, Kanye is already in bed with them.”
Cohen, who investigates antisemitism for an organisation called Israel Advocacy Movement, raises concerns that Kayne is not only influencing white supremacists in America, but the far right in Britain too.
“The most powerful Black artist in the world has united with some of the most dangerous and violent white supremacists on the planet and the far right in this country – people like Tommy Robinson – are being inspired by it,” he claims.
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“It was only recently that they were focused more on Muslim people and were even attempting to pretend they were friends of Jewish people. But now the far right is, once again, universally focused on Jews and Kanye is helping with that. People who never thought about Jews suddenly believe these tropes – these ancient tropes about us – because Kanye is saying them. And the hardest thing is, I don’t know what we can do about it.”
*Some interviewees chose not to share their surnames.
The Ministry of Justice (MoJ) has had one of its adverts banned, for being likely to cause “serious offence” by “reinforcing negative stereotypes about Black men”.
The ad for the MoJ’s Prison Jobs scheme, which ran this summer, featured an image of a white prison officer talking to a Black inmate, with superimposed text stating: “Become a prison officer. One career, many roles.”
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A caption accompanying the image read: “We’re key workers, problem solvers, life changers. Join us to perform a vital role at HMP Wormwood Scrubs.”
A reader complained that the ad perpetuated negative ethnic stereotypes and was likely to cause serious offence.
The MoJ said the photographs used in the ad campaign featured real officers and prisoners, arguing that it did not therefore “portray” a Black man as a criminal but rather depicted a real person who had been convicted of an offence.
It said it was not therefore an inaccurate or unfair representation of the type of engagement that might have been seen between officers and prisoners.
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The MoJ said the image formed “one small part” of the overall campaign – accounting for less than 5% of its spending on the ads – “which used a wide variety of images and showed officers of different ethnicities, interacting with each other”.
It added that none of the other images used in the Facebook part of the campaign showed white officers alongside ethnic minority prisoners.
The Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) noted all this, but pointed out that viewers would be likely to see the advert in isolation on Facebook.
The ASA said: “The ad made reference to prison officers being ‘problem solvers’ and ‘life changers’, and we considered it drew a link between the officer depicted and those attributes. On the other hand, the Black prisoner was depicted as a criminal, without those positive attributes.
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“We considered the ad did not suggest that all Black men were criminals or were more likely to be so than any other ethnic group.
“However, it showed an imbalanced power dynamic, with a smiling white prison officer, described as a ‘life changer’, and a Black, institutionalised prisoner.
“We considered the ad’s focus on the positive qualities of the white prison officer and negative casting of the Black prisoner was likely to be seen as perpetuating a negative racial stereotype.
“We concluded that the ad was likely to cause serious offence on the grounds of race by reinforcing negative stereotypes about Black men.”
The ASA ruled that the ad must not appear again, adding: “We told the Ministry of Justice to ensure they avoided causing serious offence on the grounds of race.”
You’re reading Gen:Blxck, a series exploring Black culture, history, family and identity through the generations.
On a Friday, Saturday or even Sunday night, there’s one place and one place only where you’ll be able to find me: the dance. As a resident ‘out-out’ girl, partying is where I feel the most alive. It’s a time where I’m able to dress up, drink, be with my friends and dance until the early hours of the morning. The enjoyment is doubled when I’m in a space where hearing afrobeats isn’t rare, where I don’t have doubt if the colour of my skin will hinder my chances of getting inside, where I can be free.
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Note that I said ‘partying’ and not ‘clubbing’, as the Black club scene in London and other parts of the UK is pretty non-existent. Instead, almost all of us can be found at pop-up events from organisers like DLT, Recess, Pitch Sundays and Jay’s Link Up.
Today, these events make up for the lack of dedicated clubs catered to Black audiences – but it hasn’t always been this way.
In the 90s to the 2000s, Black clubs were on the rise. Playing music from garage, jungle, dancehall and grime, they were the places you wanted to be if you were Black and wanted to rave.
“It looked very much like a So Solid music video.”
– Alison Awoyera
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Alison Awoyera, who a 34-year-old founder of Itsblackowned.com, found herself at her first rave at the tender age of 15. “I started going to under 18 raves, my first was at a night called ‘Final Conflict’ at a venue called Le Fez in New Cross, which is now closed,” she says.
“This was around 2003 and I remember feeling so grown, despite the crowd being mostly under 18. It was refreshing to hear the underground genres like grime and garage played on pirate stations on a night out.
“It was normal to have DJ sets in the rave too, with some MCs who went on to top the charts.”
She then started clubbing at a place called Yates in Lewisham nearly every week. Other clubs she frequented included Cameo’s, Silks & Spice and Rainforest Café, all located around south-east and central London.
The attire was simple. She recalls going to raves in flat shoes because people didn’t bother with heels. “Skirts, well-greased legs, and a cute top. Hair gelled onto forehead, a trend I see has returned and is now dubbed ‘edges,’” she shares.
“Guys wore any brash designer piece they could get: Avirex jackets, Iceberg jeans, Moschino (with the logo branded all over), Nike 110s.
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“It looked very much like a So Solid music video, which makes sense as they were topping the charts back then. As we moved into nights in central London, we had to go smarter. Heels, dresses, and much better makeup, whilst men wore smart shirts and jeans, as flyers often ran on a ‘no hats and no hoods’ policy.”
She recalls the feeling of having a night catered to a Black crowd as “unmatched”.
“At larger venues like Ministry, there were different rooms catered to genres, so you could go from old school dancehall to grime and garage, feeling so content,” she says.
“I remember if ladies got there before 11 sometimes you’d get a glass of bubbly – it felt so classy, though in hindsight it was likely the cheapest!”
Nana Adjei, who is also known as FrenchkissDj, is a 44-year-old DJ and producer who owned a club in Shoreditch called ‘FK bar’ in 2002. He started out as a DJ playing music in west-end clubs when he noticed a lack of diversity in the nightclub scene.
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“There weren’t many Black clubs or bars or anywhere really that catered for our music. It’s always been a gap in the market so I wanted to tap into that and create a space for us,” he says.
“I started raving in the 90s but there weren’t many Black clubs then, more house parties. But coming into the 2000s, they started popping up.
“The vibe was lovely, we would play hip-life, bashment, dance but though the crowd was mainly Black, it was a mixed crowd.”
The venue would open every weekend from Friday to Sunday. He would promote the club through a mailing list or through text messages. “I used to get a friend of mine to just walk around with a clip and paper on the clipboard and take people’s numbers. So after that, we insert those numbers into the telephone box system,” he recalls.
“And then if we had events coming up, we’d pay for credit and text people with the relevant information.”
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Eventually, the club closed as he experienced difficulty renewing the license. Since then, he’s moved to Ghana and opened the same club there.
“The rules weren’t as strict or stringent back then.”
– Naivasha Mwanji
When it came to going out, I learnt everything I need to know from my older sister. She started partying at the age of 13 (probably against my mother’s wishes) and would frequently attend under-age raves, eventually progressing to actual clubbing a few years later. It wasn’t uncommon in the community.
“The rules weren’t as strict or stringent back then and I think I went to my first nightclub when I was 15,” Naivasha Mwanji, a 32-year old partnerships and outreach manager, tells me.
Her go-to venues in the mid-00s were Club 19 in Forest Gate, Twilight in Canning Town, Cameos in Oxford Street and Guvna Bar which is now known as LA Lounge in Canning Town. Fast forward to today and nearly all of those clubs are closed.
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In the past decade, the British club scene has been shrinking across the board. Nightclubs in Britain fell by 21% between December 2017 and December 2018, compared to a 1% yearly decline between 2013 and 2017, according to an industry report by the International Music Summit (IMS).
The pandemic only exacerbated the problem. The latest IMS report shows 2021 ticket demand for clubs was at just 36% of 2019.
But Black-owned nightclubs – or clubs catering specifically for the Black community – have felt the impact acutely, due to already being fewer in number.
Technomaterialism, a platform formed by Black writers, musicians and club workers, produced a detailed analysis of Black representation in the industry and found that in 2021, it sat at just 4%.
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The gentrification of certain areas – with sky high property prices pushing out clubs – and form 696 have both been blamed for the decline of Black nightclubs.
Form 696 was created by the London Metropolitan police in 2005. Anyone who owned or hosted a party was required to provide information about the type of event they were going to host, the music that played, and the target audience of the crowd – often including ethnicity. Critics of the form say it allowed police to target events that played Black genres, such as grime and hip-hop.
Though the ethnicity and music style clauses were removed from the form in 2008, it was still in use until 2017, when it was eventually abolished.
In that time, clubs that once allowed Black people to feel free, shut down.
“It’s a space for people to enter without fear, a place they can move without barriers.”
– Founders of DLT
Without the clubs, we needed something to plug the gap. And today, Black event companies run the partying scene.
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From Recess to DLT, Jay’s Link Up to Pitch Sundays, these groups are making a name for themselves hosting pop-up events at venues across the capital and beyond. Think you’ve found it hard to get tickets for Adele or Lizzo? Try getting tickets for DLT.
They started banning music genres and not allowing people in, we’ve created our own spaces now….they can have the crowds they wanted https://t.co/ylN0bglANS
I’m here for the for-us by-us events, day parties and brunches. It’s a guaranteed good time, with nice vibes and no weird behaviour. No racist doormen/ bar staff and you get fed. Night time raving is so ghetto in comparison 😭😭. https://t.co/G1BUsPPWi2
— 🇯🇲ISLAND PRINCESS 🇱🇨 Vibe Minister (@tiandemi) October 23, 2022
Days Like This, also known as DLT, was birthed in New York. “Our vision was to have fun with our people in the daytime with good music, food and vibes. After the success of our first few events, we realised how much the Black community needed something as joyous as DLT in London,” they told me.
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“It then became our mission to be the standard and example for what positive and excellent Black events would look like.”
DLT want Black people to feel they have the freedom to experience their parties in whatever way they want to.
“Sometimes as Black people we go out to enjoy ourselves, but because of our surroundings, we may not feel we have the full ability to really experience the events as we’d like to – at DLT it’s very important for us for our attendees to feel that freedom in our space.
“We strive to create a space for like-minded people to fully enjoy our events. It’s a space for people to enter without fear, a place they can move without barriers.”
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As well as DLT, there’s also a surge of smaller niche Black spaces making an appearance in London.
SSensational Sounds are a music collective, made up of DJs, producers and music lovers. Their mission is to push the EDM sound within the Black community. ”So music like Afro-house, Afro-tech, amapiano, funky, garage, anything under house music we want to push,” their spokesperson said.
Amapiano, a style of South African house music, has exploded in the last year with more amapiano raves flooding all over the world. As an amapiano lover myself, the music and the parties can’t be described – they have to be experienced. Anyone who listens to the genre will describe it as spiritual.
“One of the main reasons I created SSensational Sounds was because I’m a massive music head,” they told me. “I started hearing amapiano in 2019. So I was doing my research and trying to push the sound out.”
They would describe the atmosphere at SSensational Sounds as “intimate” as they’re smaller to the bigger names like Recess or DLT and their parties are called Ssensational Shoobz. “It’s for the people that wanna dance, have fun and hear new music,” they said.
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“I go to a lot of house raves, and people there are so care-free, so I wanted to create this type of atmosphere whilst exposing people to new music.”
“You’re surrounded by people that look like you, whilst hearing music you like, dancing carelessly, it just feels like a community of joy.”
– Jasmine Akua
Pop-up parties for queer people of colour have also been on the rise, at a time when LGBTQ+ clubs are closing.
Organisations such as Reveur,Pxssy Palace, Fluid and Lick Events have created safe spaces for the Black LGBTQ community – a game-changer for people like Jasmine Lee-Zogbessou, a 26-year-old journalist from London.
“The one thing that makes these queer spaces better for me is the is the consistent emphasis on consent and ensuring that everything you’re doing in that space is welcomed,”Lee-Zogbessou says.
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“The first ever queer event I went to was Lick Events and I’ve never felt such joy. As it’s a woman-only event i was able to dress the way I wanted without the fear of being harassed.”
Outside of queer events, she usually attends Black parties like recess and DLT. “The first time I went to Recess, I absolutely loved it. You’re surrounded by people that look like you, whilst hearing music you like, dancing carelessly, it just feels like a community of joy.”
But Jasmine notes an issue with these events – they’re not regular.
“If I want to go out on a random Friday night I can’t go, I have to wait until they have an event,” she says.
All this means the demand is high, tickets sell out in minutes and you can rarely buy tickets on the door. The solution is simple: more Black clubs, right? Unfortunately this isn’t a straight forward process.
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Though form 696 has been scrapped, some club owners are still hostile to events catered to Black audiences.
So what does the future of Black parties look like?
DLT want more Black-owned club spaces that aren’t governed by harsher rules than their non-Black counterparts.
“In the future we need the larger venues to be more open to building better relationships with those on the rise as the space for Black parties is continually growing in demand,” they say.
As an out-out girl, I simply want these spaces to be the norm and not the exception, especially in areas outside of London where events are even more scarce.
These spaces aren’t created to alienate ourselves from ‘normal’ clubs, they’re born out of a clear lack of diversity and inclusion in the nightclub scene.
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Now, Alexa, play ‘Heated’ by Beyonce, it’s time for me to get ready.
What does it mean to be Black and British? Well, it depends which generation you ask. This Black History Month, HuffPost UK has teamed up with BuzzFeed’s Seasoned and Tasty UK to find out. Read more from Gen:Blxck here.
You’re reading Gen:Blxck, a series exploring Black culture, history, family and identity through the generations.
My earliest memories of having my hair done are all at home. My mother would braid mine and my sister’s hair before it got too thick for her to manage. Then I met my first hairdresser, a family friend of a friend, called Akosi. I’d travel to her house with my mum and spend the next few hours sitting in between her legs, getting curly box braids (my absolute go-to back then).
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But in recent years, there’s been a surge of young Black women getting into the hair industry and using Instagram as a way to find clients. They’re labelled IG hairdressers by the community, and fewer women my age are now going to traditional Black hair salons where ‘Aunties’ typically styled your hair.
Aunties once ruled the Black hair landscape here – we grew up with them and we didn’t have anyone else to compare them to. But now there is a growing ‘Aunties versus IG hairdressers’ debate in the community. And of course there are pros and cons to each.
If you’re looking for a cheap price point, you’d probably want to get your hair done by an auntie. The trouble is, you’re more likely to be waiting a few hours to get your hair finished in the salon as they switch – and chat – between clients.
IG hairdressers, on the other hand, are easier to find and book online and more likely to be able to do a hairstyle they haven’t done before, but they also tend to charge more and often get called out for unprofessional behaviour like cancelling last minute.
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Whoever we trust with our hair, the styles Black women are favouring are changing – and fast. For centuries our hair has been policed by whiteness, but now, Black women are finding a new sense of pride. We’re finding our unique styles, whether that’s braving the big chop or saying ‘no’ to wigs altogether.
It’s been a long journey to get here and even the biggest fans of IG hairdressers will acknowledge we’ve got decades of salon owners to thank for it.
“In the 1960s, Black hair was often either stylishly styled in a natural African look or chemically treated to give it a washed-out colour,” co-founder and CEO of Curl Centric, Akirashanti Byrd tells HuffPost UK,
Byrd is 45 and she’s been styling Black hair for 15 years. Her customers are mainly Black women who want to keep their hair in its natural state.
“Often, these women are not familiar with the various styling techniques and products available to them, so I spend a lot of time educating them on the available options,” Byrd says. She has seen many trends in her time as a hairdresser. “By the 1980s, Black women were experimenting with naturally kinky curls and Afros, greatly expanding their style options,” she says.
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“In the 1990s, we saw celebrities like Viola Davis rocking bold Black hairstyles that stood out from all other styles. This decade also saw the introduction of blonde hair dye, which helped make light-skinned people’s dark locks more visible. Since then, many variations of Black hairstyles have continued to be popular today, including relaxed curls, cornrows, dreadlocks and afro.”
The ways you can treat and style Black hair have also expanded in this time – especially with the help of the natural hair movement.
The natural hair movement really kicked off in the 60s alongside the civil rights movement, and was spearheaded by political activist Angela Davis. Afros were worn to protest against white supremacy and champion Black liberation.
However, the early to mid 2000s saw a resurgence of this movement. More and more women in our community started to question why we relied so much on straight hair to make us feel worthy. So we put relaxers and the hot combs on pause and brought back the blue magic, afro combs and blow dryers.
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Social media has played a big part in this. I learnt how to style my natural hair by watching YouTube. I watched to see how I could maintain a wash and go, slick down my 4C hair, and even attempted to learn how to cane roll (I’m still learning).
“The rise in popularity of natural hairstyles has led to an increase in demand for products and services that cater to this market and has resulted in more Black-owned businesses entering the industry,” Byrd says.
“The natural hair movement has positively influenced the Black hair industry. It has helped increase awareness of the need for products specifically designed for Black hair and has created a demand for these products. This has resulted in more companies developing Black hair care lines, helping to grow the industry.”
Brands like Ruka Hair, Cantu, Shea Moisture, KeraCare are Black girls’ go to for hair products. And women are investing their money into these brands. Black Women in the UK account for 10% of haircare spending, although they make up only 2% of the UK adult population, a survey by TreasureTress found.
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“Today, I feel like hair trends seem to change with the season: seasonal colours, lengths and protective styles etc,” says hairstyilst Ayanda Soares. Soares has been a hairdresser for 14 years and describes her customers as those who want to embrace their natural hair and often opt for protective styling.
She began learning when she was a teenager. “I had always done my own hair, as my mum was terrible at doing mine and my sister’s hair – she had dreadlocks for most of our childhood,” she shared. “In secondary school, I would braid friends’ hair and I learned to do braided weaves around the same time.”
Soares tells HuffPost that in her time as a hairdresser, she’s seen a surge in demand for experimental methods such as tape-ins and keratin fusion. These options weren’t accessible in the UK in the same way they were in the US due to a lack of hair suppliers offering extensions for women with Black hair.
“These have been around for many years, but have not been seen at this level in the afro/Black hair space,” she adds.
Soares agrees that social media has played its part in changing the landscape of Black hair styling. “It has also has allowed us to showcase our work globally,” she says.
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She is big on educating women about how to care for their hair, running training programmes that highlight how to clean and prolong your hair extensions, for example.
“Content creators also help sell the message for us business owners, in terms of education, so we tend to work with influencers often,” she adds.
The pandemic also affected the way Black women do their hair – 64.7% said the way the did their hair changed as a result of lockdowns, according to the TreasureTress research.
More of us made the decision to transition “back to natural”, where women grow out their chemically treated hair. Additionally, they actively sought out resources to educate themselves on how to take care of their hair because they were no longer able to visit professionals due to lockdowns.
And with a younger demographic booking clients, the hair styles Black women are choosing is shifting.
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The most popular hairstyles today tend to be the more natural ones, like knotless braids, free-style feed in cane rolls or locs, Marlene Gatrude Twinomugisha, a 20-year-old hairdresser from London tells me.
She started doing hair by “accident”. Similar to Soares, she didn’t like the way her mum did her hair, so took it upon herself to learn how to style it. “I then moved on to to doing hair for my cousins, then my friends and more people were asking me to do their hair at school, so I just kind of fell into it,” she says.
“My experiences getting my hair done by aunties when I was younger was me showing them a hairstyle, them saying they can do it but whenever the style was done, it didn’t look the same at all,” says Twinomugisha, who posts her styles on Instagram under the name Crowned By Her UK.
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She believes younger girls have moved to sourcing stylists from Instagram because IG hairdressers are able to jump on hair trends quicker. “Aunties can’t really keep up,” she adds.
However, IG hairdressers also have their issues. Writing for Refinery29 earlier this summer, Yolanthe Fawehinmi detailed how the convoluted booking process and poor customer service is causing young women to return to their roots.
“As more and more horror stories pile in about the last-minute cancellations, excessive fees, where you’ll need to pay a deposit via a booking system to secure an appointment and can be charged for being late, wanting extra length or colour, and of recent, even parting your hair — sometimes bad customer service, young people on social media are boycotting Instagram hairstylists, particularly those on TikTok, who are going back to Britain’s African braiders,” she reported.
Sade Idem, a 25-year-old hairstylist from Kent, says younger black stylists have more of a business mindset.
“With many of us growing up in the UK, we’ve seen how much Caucasian stylists would charge for less challenging hair services, and we realise £60 for seven hours of braiding with no breaks is criminal!” she says.
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Idem has a lot of respect for older stylists as they’ve paved the way for the younger ones. “However, many older stylists are focused on the final look, rather than the health of the client’s hair long term,” she comments. “Their customer service can also be affected as they’re trying to fit in as many clients as possible to make up for the low prices they charge.”
So what does the future of Black hair and hairdressing look like from here? To me, it looks like versatility, growth and experimentation. As we move towards more protective and natural styles, I see us breaking away from the idea that we have to play it safe with our hair. Let’s enjoy it, and have fun.
I hope to see more young Black girls growing in the profession, but I do believe there’s a place for aunties in the Black hairdressing arena. They worked hard to build Black spaces for women to do hair in this country and paved the way for younger Black women to learn and grow as hairdressers.
As Byrd puts it: “There’s no doubt that Black hairdressing is a growing industry with immense potential. The future looks bright for those willing to put in the hard work and dedication required to succeed.”
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What does it mean to be Black and British? Well, it depends which generation you ask. This Black History Month, HuffPost UK has teamed up with BuzzFeed’s Seasoned and Tasty UK to find out. Read more from Gen:Blxck here.
On the track Heated, which was co-written with Drake, the pop star can be heard singing an ableist and offensive term: “S**zzin’ on that ass, s**z on that ass. Fan me quick, girl, I need my glass.”
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It comes just months after singer Lizzo made headlines for using the same derogatory term in a song. Following an uproar, Lizzo listened to feedback, apologised for using it and recorded a new version without it.
Charities championing disabled people called on Beyoncé to edit the lyrics and record a new version.
The term derives from the word ‘spastic’ and is particularly hurtful to those who actually experience spasms, which can be incredibly painful and disruptive to daily life, as Imani Barbarin, who has spastic diplegia (a form of cerebral palsy), explains below.
Ok, so here’s what I have to say about Sp*z as a word: if you’re going to call yourself one, really go all in… pic.twitter.com/9VpwjK2lkT
— Imani Barbarin, MAGC | Crutches&Spice ♿️ (@Imani_Barbarin) June 13, 2022
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Words matter. Research by disability equality charity Scope found 72% of disabled people have experienced negative attitudes or behaviour in the last five years – with nine in 10 of these saying it had a negative effect on their daily lives.
Hannah Diviney, from Sydney, was one of the first people to call Lizzo out for her use of the word in a song.
The disability advocate and writer said the same mistake by Beyoncé – who is arguably one of the most famous people on the planet and a role model to many – “feels like a slap in the face to me, the disabled community and the progress we tried to make with Lizzo”.
“Guess I’ll just keep telling the whole industry to ‘do better’ until ableist slurs disappear from music,” she tweeted.
So @Beyonce used the word ‘spaz’ in her new song Heated. Feels like a slap in the face to me, the disabled community & the progress we tried to make with Lizzo. Guess I’ll just keep telling the whole industry to ‘do better’ until ableist slurs disappear from music 💔
In a piece published on Hireup, Diviney wrote: “It’s not very often that I don’t know what to say, rendered speechless by ignorance, sadness and a simmering anger born of bone-deep exhaustion. But that’s how I feel right now.”
She continued: “Beyoncé’s commitment to storytelling musically and visually is unparalleled, as is her power to have the world paying attention to the narratives, struggles and nuanced lived experience of being a black woman – a world I can only ever understand as an ally, and have no desire to overshadow.
“But that doesn’t excuse her use of ableist language – language that gets used and ignored all too often.”
Fans agree that it’s not about getting artists like Beyoncé and Lizzo cancelled, more about educating that the words they use matter.
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Journalist and author of Crippled, Frances Ryan, said it was “very hard to believe” neither Beyoncé nor anyone in her team didn’t recognise the ableist slur when Lizzo made the same mistake a month ago “and graciously corrected it”.
Krystal-Bella Shaw, writer and founder of Dyspraxia magazine, branded it “disappointing”.
“Beyoncé has no excuse for using the word sp*z in her new song. Considering how public Lizzo went for the use in her song and for her removing it… this is disappointing,” she tweeted. “Why are disabled people constantly having to fight for ableist slurs to stop being used?”
Charities supporting disabled people also condemned the use of the term.
Ahead of Beyoncé’s statement that she’ll remove the lyric, Bethany Bale, policy and campaigns officer at Disability Rights UK, told HuffPost UK: “Ableist slurs are unacceptable in any context, especially in 2022 when many artists have already publicly learnt from past mistakes and educated others on the power of derogatory language in the process.
“It’s disappointing to see Beyoncé using an ableist slur so soon after Lizzo’s new single ‘Grrrls’ highlighted the hurt this language causes the Disabled community and others.
“We hope that, like Lizzo, Beyoncé will educate herself on the meaning and history behind this language and decide to edit her lyrics.”
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Warren Kirwan, media manager at Scope, said it was “appalling” that ”one of the world’s biggest stars has chosen to include this deeply offensive term”. Like Ryan, he said it’s hard to believe that could have gone unnoticed by Beyoncé’s team.
“Words matter because they reinforce the negative attitudes disabled people face every day, and which impact on every aspect of disabled people’s lives,” Kirwan told HuffPost UK.
“Beyoncé has long been a champion of inclusivity and equality, so we’d urge her to remove this offensive lyric.”
In a statement to Insider, a representative for the Grammy award-winning singer confirmed the lyric will be changed.
“The word, not used intentionally in a harmful way, will be replaced,” the statement said.
Let’s hope that’s the last time a global superstar sings it.
We don’t know why it’s taken so long, but deaf people will now have access to 999 emergency services.
Previously, you could only make audial calls for the police and ambulance or fire brigade, but today a new BSL-friendly new service is being launched.
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People will be able to download and use an app to communicate to a BSL interpreter who will then relay the information to emergency services. Ofcom, the communications regulator, says that telephone and broadband companies are required to offer the free, 24/7 video call service for BSL users.
Until now, deaf people could only use a text messaging service to contact 999, but this only worked if you had registered in advance. So anyone who needed access but hadn’t registered had to find an alternative way to get help, which could be catastrophic in the case of an emergency.
Additionally, the text service operates only in English, meaning non-speakers might also struggle to communicate their situation and needs.
It’s been the result of a long campaign by deaf organisations and individuals, including the national hearing loss charity, RNID, and Sign Health, the deaf health charity, with many people shouting out their work on Twitter.
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Ofcom estimates the provision could help save at least two lives every year and police forces across the country have been sharing links to the service.
The 999 BSL app comes as welcome news to the deaf community who finally have a service that caters to their needs in an urgent situation.
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The Action Deafness charity is hosting parties for the Walsall, Worcester and Oxford Deaf communities on Friday 17 June to celebrate its launch.
Annie Harris, advocacy officer at the RNID, told the Times: “Anyone needing the emergency services is facing a difficult, distressing and potentially life-threatening situation. Everyone must have timely and easy access to the emergency services and it’s brilliant news that deaf people will now have equal access to 999 in their first language.
“We’re proud to be part of this life-saving campaign and we hope this major step will be followed by increased deaf awareness among emergency services staff, so that deaf people facing an emergency can get the support they need.”
The British Sign Language (BSL) Act was passed into law on April 28 2022 after decades of campaigning by the deaf community.
“Taking pictures, make sure you can’t see no lace, that wig secure like the money in a safe.” So goes the Chloe x Halle song, Do It.And those lyrics signify just how normalised wig-wearing is for Black women. Growing up it was normal to see your mum, aunts and even grandmas wearing one.
But the state of wigs have evolved a lot since they started wearing them.
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I was 17 when I first ventured into the world of wigs and these were the days of closures. A closure is your bog-standard wig that usually features clips or an elastic band to ensure it stays in place all day. In fact, they’re perfect for everyday use, because they’re so easy to put on and take off.
Now we also have the frontal wig, which has really taken off in the past couple of years. When Chloe and Halle sing, “Make sure you can’t see no lace”, they are referring to the lace on a frontal wig. A frontal differs from a closure wig as it’s typically glued down to your hairline so it looks more like your own hair.
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As Martha O explains on the Natural Girl Wigs blog: “One way to identify frontals is that they are used to recreate the hairline from ear to ear, while closures are used to recreate the natural parting of the hairline.”
Frontal wigs have grown in popularity, especially online.But head to TikTok and you’ll see more and more Black women who are tiring of their wigs, too.
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This sentiment isn’t part of the natural hair movement per se – many Black women still enjoy wearing fake hair – but we want to explore different options. Options such as tape-ins, pony-tails and natural hair extensions. The kind of options that have been available to white women for much longer.
This is something that Tendai Moyo and Ugo Agbai, co-founders of Ruka Hair, have also observed. Ruka is a Black-owned hair business that aims to provide Black women with hair extensions in different textures and formats. As well as selling online, it now has a physical shop in Westfield Stratford City and also works with a network of “co-creators” (in its lingo) who test out products.
“What we’ve noticed is Black women having less attachment to a particular style. We’ve seen more people experimenting with their own hair in various formats like ponytails and clip-ins,” Moyo tells HuffPost UK.
She continues: “One of the things a co-creator said in our community interview last year is that, historically, white women can go to a salon and say, ‘I want longer hair that looks exactly like mine.’ But, historically speaking, Black women haven’t been able to do that.”
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That more Black women are downing their wigs is due to two Cs, she says: compromise (or not wanting to) and choice (the availability of alternatives). “Three years ago, white women were using things like micro-links. This option wasn’t a thought for Black women then, because it didn’t exist in our texture.”
Agbai also sees the trend for wig-wearing waning. “I think with wigs, especially with frontals, it was something that you only saw in the theatre, or only saw celebrity stylists doing. Then it became extremely accessible and prominent. Now I feel like people are experimenting with other styles,” she tells me.
Wider choice is certainly a factor, but let’s not understate that the maintenance of frontals can be tedious. Wearing a frontal regularly requires a lot of time and effort. You have to glue the wig (which can take ages), then straighten it, apply a lace tint to make the wig look natural. Sure, you get used to it, but it’s not fun.
As the Ruka website highlights, Black women spend six times as much as their white counterparts on haircare products and service. But this could be beginning to change.
“I’ve seen Black women accept the fact that their hair doesn’t have to take a ridiculously long time,” Moyo says. “Especially since frontals are usually done by professionals, if you do it by yourself you’re not always doing it correctly, which causes more damage and time needed. I’ve seen more Black women finding styles that are less time consuming.”
Agbai agrees and suggests that it’s liberating many of us from some long-held habits, in some cases inherited. “All of the language we’ve been socialised to use around our hair has influenced this,” she says. “We think our hair should take a long time, that it can laborious to do our hair. I’m excited to see that shift and see Black women really look for quicker solutions.”
“I felt like I was forcing it… when I put a frontal on myself, I didn’t look like those other girls.”
– Akua Ntiamoah, 26, Essex
The phrase “where’s the lace?” is used all too often in reference to frontal wigs. There’s an obsession with making frontals look exactly like the hair on your head when a lot of the time, they just don’t. This pressure for wig perfection has made some Black women consider other options.
This is the case for Akua Ntiamoah, 26, a civil servant from Essex, who says she didn’t enjoy wearing wigs as her hair never looked like what she saw online.
“I felt like i was forcing it. Maybe it’s because I saw girls on Instagram wearing them, but when I put a frontal on myself I didn’t look like those other girls,” she says. “Black girls always say, ‘the lace is invisible’, but I can see it in real life.”
She stopped wearings wigs two years ago. “I was tired of my wigs not looking natural, so I cut my hair. I wore wigs from time to time, but I still didn’t look right so now I just wear my hair out in a pony.” She says she also enjoys braids.
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Moyo and Agbai have received positive feedback about Roka’s ponytails that putting them on doesn’t require much work for the wearer. As they tell me: “We’d get women saying: ‘We don’t have to put much gel in our, we can just attach the ponytail and go.’ That is the best thing!”
While wigs are often seen as a great protective style, wearing them too often can also damage your hair. For Joy Olugboyega, 25, a photographer and director from London, wearing wigs ruined her hairline – so she doesn’t.
“I stopped wearing wigs in 2019. Haven’t worn a wig since,” she says. “My relationship with wigs was pretty much on and off. I hated what it was doing to my hairline but at the same time appreciated the convenience.”
And now she’s made the break, Olugboyega is reclaiming more than her hair. “I realised I looked way better with my natural hair and Afrocentric hairstyles like fulani braids, faux locs, feed-ins. Not only do I look better, but I feel better too, like a queen,” she says.
“I just feel more like I’m more myself when it comes to how I present. It’s the truest representation of me and where I come from.
Raheem Bailey is a name you would have seen all over your social feeds over the weekend. Devastatingly, the 11-year-old had a finger amputated after he suffered an injury trying to flee bullies at school.
The young Black student was attacked, beaten and pushed to the ground in his school in Abertillery, Wales, based on racist bullying, said his mother Shantal.
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Doctors worked six hours to save Raheem’s fingers but ultimately could not save it.
Since she shared the news, the story has gained worldwide attention, with the likes of Anthony Joshua, Jadon Sancho and US basketball player Gerald Green speaking out.
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The mum also started a GoFundMe page with the intention of raising £10k for Raheem’s medical costs, including a prosthetic finger. But since the story broke out, donations have poured in, far exceeding the family’s expectations.
Currently, the donations stand at £101,847.
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Shantal Bailey wrote on the donations page: “Raheem has faced racial and physical abuse, as well as more generic bullying about his height and other things, since he started secondary school in September 2021.”
Though she had been aware of some comments, she was not aware of the extent of her son’s bullying, she said.
“Raheem was attacked by a group of children and beaten (mainly kicked) after being pushed to the ground. Consequently, Raheem made a desperate attempt to leave the school grounds in order to escape the situation.
“Whilst climbing the fence, his finger got caught and attached to it, causing the skin to strip and the finger to break in half it.”
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The mother said she had contacted the school about the incident and was assured it would be dealt with.
The school, Abertillery Learning Community, announced yesterday that it would be closed today as it work with police to investigate the issue.
In a statement issued on Sunday, Blaenau Gwent County Borough Council said that all campuses would be closed on Monday, saying: “Abertillery Learning Community is working with Gwent Police in relation to an ongoing investigation into an alleged assault on the secondary campus.
“All campuses at Abertillery Learning Community will be closed tomorrow on health and safety grounds.
“Learners will access blended learning for Monday, 23rd May. The safety and well-being of learners and staff remains of paramount importance to the Learning Community and the Local Authority at all times.”